Posted on

La Fortuna: Getting Around On Two Wheels

One of the major problems with Fortuna is that, other than going to restaurants and shops, there’s not that much to do in town, which means walking isn’t that great of an option for transport when sightseeing. That leaves three options: renting a car (which thanks to some shenanigans with rental agencies and insurance, starts at $50 a day), taking a cab (great for short distances), or renting a scooter. The latter is a bit more affordable for short trips, since it came in at $30 a day including a full tank of gas, and really, unless you’re a hardcore scooterist, you’re pretty likely run out of stamina before you run out of gas. During our time in Fortuna, Elani and I tried all three, but when it comes to the actual experience of traveling, the scooter was the most memorable.

Our first outing was a trip to one of the local waterfalls, then out to the free hot springs.  We rented a scooter with an automatic transmission and 125cc of raw power. We were given reflective bandoliers and helmets that, let’s just say, would not have passed Department of Transportation standards, and off we went. Carrying two full size adults, a scooter that size didn’t accelerate or stop particularly well, but we got along well enough, and after a couple of trips around the block for kicks, it was off to the waterfall. After a long ride up a rather steep hill (during the steepest part, I had to completely open up the throttle to keep speed up), we made it to a park with a lovely little orchid garden and, of course, a rather stunning waterfall.

First view of Fortuna Falls
Taken by Elani

After going down WAY too many steps, we were treated to closer views of the waterfall and a chance to have a swim in the pools downstream.

Fortuna Falls
Taken by Elani
Swimming downstream of the falls
Taken by Elani

Then it was off to the hot springs. I’ve already written about them here, but suffice to say it was a very relaxing time. The drive out there was a bit longer then I thought. A 10 minute car ride turned into a 15-20 scooter trip, but it was a nice day, so no biggy. On the way back however, it was twilight and it started raining. A 20 minute drive on a heavily loaded scooter on a major road, in dark and rain with no windshield (no idea why they thought that was a non-essential piece of equipment) was pretty much “exciting” enough to undo all the relaxing I had gotten in the hot springs, though on the plus side, it was the first time I’d felt too cold since I’d left the mountain town of Monteverde. But despite a bit of white knuckling it on the way back, it was quite lovely day of scootering.

I evidently hadn’t had enough, because a couple days later, I rented another little bike to keep myself amused while Elani was working. This one was a still a 125cc, but it was a proper little motorcycle with a manual transmission and everything. Still hardly a power house, but I did get it up to 80 kph (or 50 mph if you’re into that kind of thing) before I decided that was probably faster than is really necessary on a contraption like this. I decided to head out to the town of La Tigre, because it sounded cool. Lovely drive, but I was hoping for a bit more out a town named for one of the fiercer land predators on earth. Well, what’s in a name, anyway? The most excitement probably came for crossing a bridge. Here’s a picture of me by said bridge:

Me and my “trusty” steed
Taken by the dude at the roadside restaurant

Doesn’t look too bad, right? Well, the driving surface was a steel grid that shifted unnervingly and had a few slats missing. Not enough to drop a tire into, but with skinny little tires, I didn’t want to find out how much that would disrupt my path. But I crossed twice without incident and stopped for a snack at the restaurant where that picture was taken. I ordered a “cheese snack,” which turned out to just be two thick slices of cheese on two store bought tortillas, so not exactly fine dining. But hey, it was cheap, and the proprietor offered to take a picture of me with my trusty steed.

Well, it was nice to get a chance to try out the one the most popular local form of transport, and even with a few rough roads, nerve racking bridges, and rain storms, it left me having a few fond thoughts of my own poor neglected motorcycle patiently waiting for me back home.

Posted on

La Fortuna: Soaking in the Hot Springs

One of the main tourist draws to La Fortuna is the abundance of thermal hot springs to soak in.  There is a pretty wide range of development, luxury, and of course cost to choose from. Everything from a free trip down to the river by the bridge to $85 for a half day (and dinner of course) in carefully built and  maintained pools at the high end luxury spas. We mostly stuck to the free hot spring, though we did spring for an evening at one of the fancier places just to see what all the fuss was about.

I’ll start with the fancy place. It was $70 for a half days with dinner. Drinks were not included, although to my surprise, they weren’t overcharging for them (though I think they could have been a bit more generous with the pours on the mixed drinks). We chose this place because it was supposed to have some of the best natural surroundings, and it didn’t disappoint. It was a few miles out of town and set into the jungle – they did a great job of landscaping and building the pools so that it fit nicely into the surroundings. I don’t remember how many pools it had, but there were plenty. They started at the top with a waterfall that was really too hot to spend more than a few minutes in and flowed through the rest of the resort with more pools in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and temperatures all the way down to unheated river water. So we spent the few hours trying out the different pools, getting a little too hot, then cooling off and going back again, with the cycle broken up by a trip to the poolside bar for drinks. After dinner (which I think I’d call fine, not mind-blowing), it was getting pretty dark and it was a good time to head to the farthest downstream pool, which was a great place to watch the fireflies buzzing around in the treetops. All in all, it was a great way to spend the evening. However, at the end of the day, the luxury and convenience of this place made it feel a bit canned. Everything was safe, secure, and taken care of. The people there were all tourists, the food was a bit “institutional,” the grounds themselves were too man-made. Basically the only thing that really felt local was the water. Which is why at the end of the day, I think I enjoyed going to the free hot springs quite a bit more.

The free hot springs in Fortuna are right before the big lines of huge resorts on your way into town. You park on the side of the road just after a bridge (usually giving the guys directing traffic and parking, probably unofficially, a couple of bucks) and wander down to the river. Once at the river you can either head to a number of little pools downstream or, like I usually ended up doing, head upstream under the bridge and find a comfortable spot to sit among the rocks. The water in the river wasn’t really hot, just warm, but considering that the air temperature was anything but cold in Fortuna, that was fine with me. Unlike the high end hot resort hot springs, this place has a nice mix of locals and travelers, and though it was crowded enough at times that you’d have a wait before you could snag one of the most choice spots, there was always somewhere decent to sit, and the scene was friendly and vibrant. However, the social scene wasn’t what made it stand out to me. There were two striking details that made this place completely different from any hot spring I’d been to either in Costa Rica or elsewhere. The first was that it was just a river, no walls or benches or any of the other niceties you’d expect to find a in even a semi-constructed hot spring. It was just rocks and sand, and it was up to you to find a comfy spot to sit. The second was that being a river, the water was flowing. I’ve never really felt anything quite like being in water flowing just a little cooler then body temperature, it is EXTREMELY relaxing. One of my favorite parts was finding a little rapid I could sit under and wedge myself against a rock so I could almost completely relax. It was pretty much like getting a whole body massage.  The couple of time Elani and I were able to stay at the hot springs until twilight, we were rewarded with sightings of bats and fireflies in the darkening treetops.

While the resort hot springs were certainly nice in their way, when it came right down to it, the free hot springs had what I really look for when I’m traveling – the chance to experience something truly unique to the place I’m visiting.

Posted on

Writers’ Block: That’s My Story and I’m Sticking to It

Me, extremely busy, on the beach in Tarifa
Taken by Elani

I’ve been a bit remiss in my self-imposed duties, I’m afraid, which is to say updating this blog. I’d love to say that it was because I’ve been kiting every day, but that’s not really it. I have been kiting to be sure, and doing plenty of exploring and even, in an out of character turn of events, quite a bit of socializing. But really I let myself get distracted, and fell out of the habit of writing a post or two over the week. Or wait – maybe I should blame it on writers’ block. That makes it sound more like I’m a serious writer, so I’ll go with that.

Not that I regret having a bit of a busy schedule over the last several weeks. Elani and I were able to convince a couple of our best friends to come visit us in quick succession (we actually dropped one off and picked the other up from the airport on the same day). Getting to share our globing trotting with a couple of our favorite people was awesome. While they were here, it was a great excuse to tourist around a bit more, well, a lot more. We’ve seen not only several amazing cities in southern Spain (Seville, Ronda, Vejar) but also day-tripped to two other countries – Gibraltar and Tangier, Morocco. Heck, Tangier marks a trip to a whole other continent for me, one closer to the goal of hitting all seven.

Long story short, a lot has happened since my last update. I seem to be making memories much faster than I can write them down, and I still need to tell the whole story of Costa Rica. So, be patient with me. I’m trying to get back in the saddle and get caught up. To start with, let me tell you about Nuevo Arenal, and drinking gin and tonics on the beach.

Posted on

First Day in Tarifa

Well, I’m getting a little tired of being out of sync between real time and what I’m writing about in the blog. To remedy that, I’m going to start writing little pieces as they come to mind (like this one), while still doing longer, more in-depth posts in order. As far as writing goes, some things are just easier to write while fresh, and others work better with a bit of reflection. Breaking the chronological order will help me achieve that. That means that I’ll still be writing about Costa Rica for a while, but right now I’m in Tarifa, Spain, and I’m going to write a little post about what’s happening now. Also, I’m going to be in Tarifa for 5 weeks, so hopefully I’ll get all caught up.

Elani and I have been here all of about a day, just enough time to get settled in the apartment we’re renting in the old town, go buy groceries, walk around the old town, and go out for coffee. The old town basically looks like a mash-up of a kitschy beach town and the Cairo set from “Raiders of the Lost Ark,” but populated with Spaniards. The building style is heavily influenced by the close proximity to Morocco – less than 20 km across the strait of Gibraltar – with densely packed two story buildings covered in white plaster inside and out and topped with red clay roofing tiles. The buildings are broken up by a maze of narrow cobblestone streets and narrower walkways lined with an interesting assortment of shops, cafes, restaurants and bars. The old town is surrounded by an old stone city wall that terminates at a castle next to a rocky coastline.

A narrow plant lined back alley in Tarifa
Taken by Elani
View of a breakwater from coast in Tarifa with Morocco in the background
Taken by Elani

Walking along the coast, you stroll past a modern port filled with a variety of boats ranging from small fishing vessels to the high speed ferries that jet off between Tarifa and Tangiers, Morocco – the rugged coastline of which is visible in the distance. After that, you arrive at the beach, which is flat and open, with white sand and brilliant blue water. The beach stretches miles up the coast and well outside the city, and both times I’ve been down there, it was lined with kiters as far as the eye could see. But lest you think this is some sort of tropical paradise, the temperatures this time of year are in the lower 60s (Fahrenheit) and there’s a constant strong breeze, so while I’m sure that throngs of sunbathers and swimmers fill the beach in warmer months, the beaches are fairly empty save for a few folks strolling along or taking pictures in windbreakers at this time of year.

The beach in Tarifa
Taken by Elani

So far, it looks like an amazing little town and I’m excited to get out and kite and do some more exploring! But now it’s time to sit down and start in on my taxes – which I’ve been procrastinating on because doing taxes is always terrible, and when faced with the option to “explore a foreign locale or do your taxes,” it’s been pretty hard to convince myself to chose the latter.