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La Fortuna: The Nature Reserve

After skipping ahead in time to discuss my current adventures with the “king of fruit” it’s time to get back to the story of my time in La Fortuna, Costa Rica. There are quite a few parks around the area, and Elani and I decided to check out Mirador el Silencio. It’s a private reserve just outside of town in the jungle at the base of Arenal Volcano.  As one might expect, the views of the volcano were quite good, although of course the peak was covered in clouds. I think we saw the peak about twice in the two weeks we were there.

Arenal Volcano with its typical cloud cover
Taken by Elani

The trails in the reserve lead up to the remains of the lava flow from the 1992 eruption. The flow itself isn’t a flat slab of rock like some, but rather a boulder field slowly being reclaimed by vegetation. In a few more decades, I imagine the whole thing will look pretty much like the rest of the jungle at the base of the volcano, but now it’s an eerie mix of short, bright green shrubs poking out between jagged black rocks.

Lave fields from Arenal’s 1992 eruption
Taken by Elani

Of course, being a nature reserve, there was plenty of flora and fauna. The forested parts were filled with huge trees whose branches serve as hosts to ferns, bromeliads and a slew of other plant life. Closer to ground level, we spotted orchids and some wonderful looking berries that I didn’t recognize, but I think we can assume were either delicious or deadly poisonous. I decided the safe option was not to find out

Every tree is basically its own aerial garden
Taken by Elani
Orchids
Taken by Elani
Delicious or deadly poison..hmm
Taken by Elani

As is typical for Costa Rica, the bird life was in fine form. We spotted several of these large black birds that look like some sort distant relative to turkeys. Even the parking lots had some great sights, with a colony of Montezuma Oropendolas and a couple of Keel Billed Toucans.

What I like to refer to as a “proto-turkey”
Taken by Elani
A Montezuma Oropendolas – try saying that three times fast
Taken by Elani

However, the most exciting wildlife sightings had to be the monkeys. They were much too high up to photograph, unfortunately. But we saw two species, the howler monkey which we’d definitely heard before but only seen once, and spider monkeys, in the only sighting we would ultimately have of them. The spider monkeys were by far the most impressive. A small group of about half a dozen went swinging through the treetops way above our heads. Spider monkeys are athletic and fearless even by monkey standards, and watching a group swinging through the treetops at speeds I’d be hard pressed to match sprinting on flat ground was something to behold. After all that, we hopped in our rental car and headed off to unwind with a relaxing dip in the hot springs  before heading back to town for dinner. It was a great way to spend a day exploring.

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Off to La Fortuna – Sorry, I Mean Fortuna

After our stay in the land of expats – Arenal – it was time to jump right back into a major tourist destination with La Fortuna, or just Fortuna, as it is pretty much always called, much like Nuevo Arenal is almost exclusively called Arenal. I was corrected for calling both Arenal and Fortuna by their full names, so Costa Ricans (or Ticos for short) seem to take not saying more words then is strictly necessary fairly seriously. There’s probably a good lesson for me there, I’m at a hundred words and I haven’t even told you much about the town yet. Alright, back on track.

Anyways, the most obvious feature of Fortuna is Arenal Volcano, usually half covered in clouds, which juts into the sky just a few miles outside town. Until relatively recently (2010, I believe) there were almost nightly displays of lava flowing down the sides of the volcano, which is really what built Fortuna up as a tourist destination. Since the flow suddenly stopped, tourism has taken a bit of a hit, and the town has a bit of a “not at capacity” feeling, but there is still plenty of natural beauty, thermal hot-springs, and adventure activities to keep folks coming.

I got a chance to have a little preview of Fortuna for an afternoon even before moving out of Arenal. A former coworker of mine was vacationing in Costa Rica, and I took the bus over to meet up with him while he was staying in Fortuna. With a couple of nice folks he met at his hostel, we went for a walk around Arenal National Park and then hung out at the natural hot springs. The park offered a few great views of the volcano and wild life (including my first, but not last, sighting of monkeys). Here’s a shot of me taken in front of the volcano:

Me at Arenal National Park

The hot springs were basically thermal vents feeding into a river, which is pretty awesome, I must say. Warm (but not really hot water) flowing over you is a pretty great way to relax.

It was only a couple of days later that Elani and I headed over to Fortuna from Arenal (the town, to be clear) for our two week stay here. We got a nice little place through AirBnB that was a few blocks outside of the main downtown, which has a nice little park and church at its center. As with most places in town there was a pretty great view of the volcano to be had there – when the clouds weren’t in the way:

Elani Posing on the fountain in the park in Fortuna
Taken by Geoff

The town itself wasn’t particularly large, but here there were plenty of decent places to eat, including an honest to goodness sushi joint, which was a nice change of pace. Not the best sushi I’ve ever eaten, but perfectly edible and they certainly didn’t skip on the portions:

Really why would you put sushi in anything except a boat?
Taken by Elani

After a few quiet days of chilling out and eating too much sushi it was time to get out and take in what Fortuna has to offer, starting with meeting a new fat little flower-eating friend.